Critique of Indique Hair

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When Good Extensions Go Bad

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The Globalization of Indian Hair

David Gold

The Next Step

A company named SDTC Exports is based in Bangalore.

Mayoor Balsara is standing in a large room holding a dark, knotted bundle in between his shoulder and his elbow, measuring it. “No gray strands, 51 centimeters, very good quality,” he says. “This hair has never been chemically treated.” He has purchased the hair for approximately $100 ($68). Balsara, 33, is India’s biggest exporter of high-quality temple hair.

On SDTC’s factory floor, Indian women wearing white coats and masks sit in front of mountains of dark hair arranged on the floor, sorting the hair by color tone. Other women sit on low blue stools, at tables that look like small children’s desks, pulling bundles of hair across something that looks like a bed of nails.

Balsara will not combine Manibhen’s hair with that of other women — the normal procedure — but will package and label it separately.

There are 300 employees at SDTC, and Balsara plans to hire another 100 this year. When the hair arrives from temples, it is washed, brushed on the nail-studded boards, sorted by length and packaged. The Indian women remove their shoes while working at SDTC, something they would normally do only in temples.

STDC receives its donations from the country’s richest temple, Tirupati in southern India. The temple is organized like a holding company, with a foundation managing its annual revenues of roughly $368 million. “What else should we do with the hair, other than sell it?” the temple director asks.

Fifty thousand pilgrims come to Tirupati each day, and about half of them, including men, have their heads shaved. Most of the hair is exported to China, where keratin is extracted from it for use in cosmetic products. There are 600 barbers working at the Tirupati temple, making it the world’s largest barbershop.

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